Seven culinary greats that changed it all

Looking back to the generation of creative Toronto chefs that first explored local, organic, fusion and more

The current crop of camera-toting, Instagram-posting foodies might think trendy eats is a thoroughly modern invention of the last decade. 

But Torontonians have been clamouring to get into the city’s trendy dining spots for decades. We have a history of forward-thinking chefs who transformed the culinary landscape, and you might recognize a few of the names.

Remember Queen Street West? Kind of a hot neighbourhood these days. But back when Greg Couillard was creating some of the most flavourful fare this city has ever sampled, the strip was nowheresville, man. Then he opened the Parrot restaurant, and everything changed.

Couillard went on to open numerous restaurants in quick succession, not unlike how chefs continue to operate today. 

In the Parrot’s kitchen, the likes of Paul Boehmer, Anne Yarymowich, Donna Dooher and Andrew Milne-Allan developed the skills that allowed them to open such spots as Zucca, Mildred’s Temple Kitchen and many more.


This 1985 photo of Mark McEwan was taken inside the Sutton Place Hotel where he was executive chef. That kitchen was a training ground for some of Toronto’s most recognizable culinary names. (IMAGE: GETTY)

 

A short time later, a group of environmentally aware chefs started to push for organic and local food in restaurants. Sound familiar? Amongst this modern-day hippie collective were Jamie Kennedy, Michael Stadtländer and Joanne Yolles. Kennedy and Stadtländer ended up working together in the kitchen of a little restaurant in the bottom of an apartment building, named Scaramouche. They were followed in that kitchen by a UK import named Keith Froggett. Scaramouche is kind of a big deal now. 

Kennedy went on to open another influential restaurant, the Palmerston, and Stadtländer went to work in the kitchen of Sooke Harbour House out west — a pioneer in the locavore movement.


Taken in 1973 at the Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong when Susur Lee had just started what would become an illustrious culinary career. (IMAGE: CHOPPED CANADA)

 

In the late ’80s, a chef named Susur Lee started making waves while manning the kitchen at Peter Pan on Queen West. When he opened his first restaurant, Lotus, and introduced the city to fusion cuisine, it was lights out. A star was born. Mark McEwan, another stellar chef of the same generation, went his own very high-end route on his way to establishing himself as a relentless culinary force who continues to innovate and expand his operations.

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