Cognac seems to be a drink with something of an identity crisis.
The spirit, which is technically brandy because it is the product of twice-distilled white wine aged in wooden barrels, is one that is likely to call to mind a vaguely cartoonish image of luxury. Historically, owing to its often hefty price tag, Cognac has been the stuff of private clubs, evoking thoughts of bankers in back rooms, fireside with bulbous snifters in hands.
In recent years, Cognac has come to likewise be associated with hip hop culture, owing in large part to a 2001 hit song by Busta Rhymes and P. Diddy called “Pass the Courvoisier,” that caused sales of that brand to jump 30 per cent and launched a name-dropping trend that eventually helped cement “yak’s” place in hip hop culture, for better or for worse.
And so with these two disparate, wealth-worshiping images shaping most of our perceptions of Cognac, it’s been pretty easy for self-styled discerning drinkers to dismiss the stuff.
Which is a shame, because neither of these prevailing images really gets at Cognac’s unique character.
Instead, as with most beverages, the best way to enjoy Cognac is to ignore the bullshit related to its image and marketing and focus on what’s in your glass; which, in the case of Cognac, is inarguably French.
Extremely strict regulations related to how and where it’s made dictate that Cognac must be produced in the aptly-named Cognac region of France with grapes from the sub-regions of Grande Champagne, Petit Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires—sub regions which are each known for imparting their own flavours, much the same way the regions of Scotland do for Scotch. Furthermore, Cognac must be aged at least two years in French oak barrels from either Limousin or Tronçais.
As a result of this attention to a decidedly French terroir and the various lengths of time the stuff sits in barrels, there is no shortage of subtle character among different Cognacs and it is thus worth another look, Bay Street wankers and Diddy be damned.
And as it happens, Martell, the world’s oldest Cognac house, has recently given Canadians an opportunity to taste Cognac again for the first time.
Earlier this month the 300 year-old company (through its Canadian representation, Corby Spirit and Wine Ltd.) relaunched the Martell Cognac lineup here, including Martell VS Fine Cognac, Martell Medallion VSOP, and Martell XO.
Both the VS (very special) and VSOP (very special old pale) would provide excellent introductions to Cognac and, at these lower price points, it wouldn’t be the end of the world if you had to use it in a cocktail like a Sidecar, add a drop or two of water, or even mix it with a little ginger ale if you want to ease your way into Cognac.
Neat, the VSOP presents a nose that is somewhat akin to scotch, but with lively, fruity and vaguely cinnamon toffee-notes. The palate reveals more subtle sweetness but with a touch of wood and a warming alcohol heat that won’t take the polish of your bling and the finish is fairly lengthy and complex, like tax laws a wily banker might seek to circumvent.
750mL bottles of Martell VS Fine Cognac, Martell Medallion VSOP, and Martell XO are now available at the LCBO for $59.95, $99.10, and $280.20, respectively.
