First there was the taco and now there’s the torta. Previously relegated to the sidelines of Mexico’s culinary offerings — at least in Toronto — the torta has arrived, and it’s here to stay.

At Fonda Lola, owner Ernesto Rodriguez has opted to make Mexico City’s official sandwich the focus of his new lunch menu. Rodriguez, who named his resto after his grandma, Lola, is all about authenticity, an approach that is more than evident in the well-balanced dishes that emerge from the kitchen.  

The first order of business for a proper torta is the bun. The bolillo — a white fluffy roll — is the cornerstone of the torta. Here, they’re procured fresh from a local bakery, with a perfectly crunchy crust enrobing a light interior. A grand total of eight tortas make up the lunch menu; our top picks are the most traditional. 

The torta de cochinita pibil ($9.50) sees pork shoulder braised in pibil, a spice blend that includes chilies, achiote and orange juice. What results is a classic Mayan dish that’s full of rich flavour with a touch of sweetness and low-key spice. 

Meanwhile, the chicken torta ($10.50) sees shredded meat that has been marinated in adobo sauce — rife with chilies, cumin and more — along with beans, avocado and Oaxacan cheese. Much like the pibil, it’s both tangy and sweet, rich in flavour but not loaded with spice. 

Where other tortas in town have an unimpressive bread–filling ratio, Fonda Lola has done the math to ensure each mouthful is perfectly balanced. 

Be sure to get a seat on the tranquil back patio and end the meal on a churro note — if you can.

Fonda Lola, 942 Queen St W., 647-706-9105