Ever since swinging open its doors last summer, Leslieville’s Descendant has been swarmed with feverish pizza lovers. With only 22 seats, the digs are tight, so go at an off time if you don’t want to wait. The art on the pizzeria’s walls feels like the work of a graffiti artist gone goth; shoppers who frequent the Parkdale–Roncy intersection will recognize the aesthetic from the Playdead Cult Boutique (the owner helped out). But really, it’s all about the food.   

The Truff-Ghi ($18) is a signature item — and for good reason. Any fans of fungi will fall for this pie. Not to be confused with layered Chicago-style pizza, Detroit-style sees dough spread with a single layer of toppings and baked in a rectangular pan. Doughy bites sans sauce? Not with this method — there’s nary a dry bite in the house.  

While one glance at the inch-thick pizza may have you concerned for your gut, fret not, as the dough has a lightness to it. A robust rectangle of dough is loaded up with a cheese blend, slow-roasted garlic, cremini mushrooms, double-smoked bacon and a mass of caramelized onions. White truffle sauce fortifies that mushroom angle, while lemon zest and fresh thyme help cut through the meatiness of the dish.

The result is a sumptuous pizza that will definitely see you returning for round two, and three, and…

Descendant, 1168 Queen St. E., 647-347-1168