Appetizing shops are a dying breed. Not to be confused with the deli, an appetizing shop is a Jewish purveyor of all the things to eat with bagels. New York City used to be rife with them, but at this point Russ & Daughters, which has been around since 1914, is one of the only ones holding down the fort.

In Brooklyn, Shelsky’s is doing a stellar job at revitalizing the style (if you're in the area, order the Brooklyn Transplant). Toronto isn’t exactly run over with them; to be specific, we’ve got pretty much one: Schmaltz Appetizing. 

At Anthony Rose’s sliver of a shop, patrons can have their pick of smoked Acadian sturgeon, kippered salmon and gravlax. There are pickles, chopped egg, and enough cream cheese to keep your bagel happy.

Choose a bagel with a schmear or pick from the selection of sandwiches. Our choice is the Plotz ($10) with a classic sesame seed bagel (from Kiva’s). Watch as they load it up with whitefish salad, sour cream and some pastel-hued wasabi tobiko, which provides enough kick to make the sandwich interesting.

Schmaltz Appetizing, 414 Dupont St., 647-350-4261