In Season and on the Menu: Peaches, the pinnacle of Ontario summer produce

Peaches symbolize immortality in Chinese mythology; they are known as the “fruit of calmness” in Hungary; and while their scientific name, Prunus persica, means Persian apples (recognizing that they were brought from Iran to Europe), peaches likely originated in China. And, most importantly, the world renowned, velvet-robed fruit are my favourite piece of local produce. 

We can thank Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula for 98% of the province’s peach harvest, and over 80% of Canada’s total peach production. However, because of the inconsistent rain this summer, the dry weather means peaches are smaller than usual, according to Phil Tregunno, whose family has been farming in Niagara-on-the-Lake for four generations. But, what they lack in size, they make up for in flavour. The hot temperatures and ample sunshine mean this year’s peaches are extra peachy. 

The varieties of this stone fruit (I’ll stop talking about stone fruit after this week) usually fall under one of three categories: freestone, semi-freestone, and clingstone. 

During peak peach season, which is right now, you’ll find freestone peaches—the flesh separates easily from its pit—like Redhaven and Vivid. Semi-freestone varieties, such as Harrow Diamond and Garnet Beauty, arrive first, in mid-July. And at the end of the season—late August to early September—clingstone, Baby Gold peaches become available. With its flesh firmly attached to the stone, these peaches are ideal for canning.  

At Loka, chef Dave Mottershall is serving a baked haskap corn cake—made from Ontario grits—with compressed local peaches and hazelnut meringue for dessert. 

While haskap berries hail from Japan, the elongated blueberries are now being farmed across Canada—Loka sources theirs from Nova Scotia, and pours the berry sauce over the cake before baking. For the peach element, the Queen West team cuts the fruit into sixteenths and vacuum seals the slices with a peach pit reduction—water, apple cider vinegar, sugar, and the peach stones (they have a zero-waste policy). 

If you’re anything like me, and you’ve been eating peaches by the dozen for the past couple weeks (and drinking peach sangria by night*), you’ll be happy to know that they contain zero fat, heaps of vitamin A and vitamin C, a good amount of potassium, and even some dietary fibre. 

*To make drunken peaches, a.k.a. peach sangria, mix together white wine, peach schnapps, ginger ale, sparkling grape and peach juice, and peach slices. If you want to prepare it ahead of time, hold off on the carbonated ingredients, and add them just before serving. 

Here are some quick peach tips: lemon juice helps keep peach slices from browning, and dunking peaches in boiling water (for 30 seconds to a minute) makes them easier to peel.

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