There are two aspects to organic wines. First there is the vineyard: the grapes have to be organically grown — without the use of chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers.
Vineyards provide an al fresco smorgasbord for a litany of animals, birds, insects, fungal diseases and rots. To combat these plagues, grape growers spray their vines with a sulphate spray. Organic growers, eschewing the use of chemicals, have to use other strategies.
In Australia, one winery uses a seaweed spray, another Canola oil, and E. & J. Gallo at their Laguna Ranch in Sonoma used to hang bars of a popular brand of soap from the trellis wires in the vineyard. The deer, scenting the soap, were fooled into thinking there were hunters in the area and gave the grapes a wide berth.
Then there is the use of sulphur product in all aspects of winemaking as an antioxidant and an antibacterial agent. Sulphur is added to wine as an antioxidant, to keep the wine fresh and stop its colour from turning brown. Think of an apple that is cut in two: when the flesh is exposed to air, it begins to turn brown.
The same thing happens to grape juice and finished wine that is exposed to air. The addition of sulphur to wine can also stop unwanted fermentations.
Most of the vineyards that are farmed organically are in regions where there is lots of heat and low humidity. Think southern France.
In damp, cool climates, like Burgundy, Bordeaux and Ontario, it’s necessary to spray a few times during the season to protect the grapes from mildew and black rot.
But even in our climate, there is an increasing movement toward organic growing. While many local wineries are beginning to farm organically, Southbrook Vineyards has become the first winery in Canada to have its vineyard certified by Demeter, the international body that oversees biodynamic agriculture. And, Frogpond Farm, in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is the only certified organic winery in Ontario.
Five Organic Wines To Try:
- Bonterra Chardonnay 2007, California ($18.95)
- Frey Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, California ($18.80)
- Malivoire Moira Vineyard Chardonnay 2005, Ontario ($37)
- Southbrook Triomphe Merlot 2008, Ontario ($21.95, winerytohome.com)
- Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2008, Ontario ($16.95)
