The Pacific Northwest region of the United States and their neighbours in B.C. have a reputation for being easy-going and laidback. So it comes as a surprise that their breweries produce such unsubtle IPAs. The local hops happen to have distinctive aromas and flavours (citrus and pine, mainly) that set them apart from their European cousins.
Naturally, the list of beers on the LCBO’s summer brewery feature—actually a team effort by three BC breweries—features a preponderance of hop forward pale ales. One of the best is the Hophead Double IPA from Kelowna’s Tree Brewing.
Hophead is a dark chestnut amber with a light dusting of creamy foam. Dipping my nose into the glass I get precisely what is expected – waves of fresh, citrusy aroma that span from grapefruit zest to fresh pine needles. The flavour swings like a pendulum from brash, malty sweetness to an austere, bitter finish. The eight points of alcohol are well hidden.
A double IPA has certain characteristics – a fistful of sweet flavours from all the barley and alcohol content a few notches above average, to name two – that could be considered counter-indications for hot weather consumption. I have, I think, an excellent challenge to that idea; this style pairs well with many favorites from the summer party food rotation. In particular, the silky richness of a homemade guacamole is cut by the bracing hop bitterness and that allows the secondary flavors (red onion, lime, and cumin) to shine more brightly than usual.
It is important to take the higher proof into account and offer this beer in smaller servings. Also, please definitely do not drink it straight from the bottle.
Because of the vagaries of our retail system, once the supply for the B.C. feature runs out it will probably be a long time before we see these beers back in Ontario. The consolation (that would have been unexpected even three years ago) is that Ontario breweries make some of Canada's best examples of the style. In fact, at this year’s Canadian Brewing Awards Toronto’s Great Lakes Brewery swept the American-style IPA category and two other Ontario breweries came first and second for Imperial IPAs.
The temporary availability of these B.C. beers is a great opportunity to compare the old guard with newer up-and-comers. Get some friends together for a head-to-head tasting with plenty of guacamole.
Tree Brewing Hophead Double IPA, $6.65 for a 650 ml bottle, LCBO #209346
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
