Belgium is well represented in the LCBO spring beer release. The difference in character, but consistency of quality demonstrates how sophisticated the brewing culture is in one of beer’s spiritual homes in Europe.
The diversity of that range is exemplified by the contrast between the beer from Boon that I wrote about a few weeks ago and Montagnarde from Abbaye des Rocs. The former was slightly sour and packed with added fruit that made it nimble and light, whereas this one is dark and slightly sweet.
Montagnarde falls into the Belgian Strong ale category. This is a sort of catch-all for the highest-octane offerings brewed by Belgian abbeys and their confederates. Abbaye des Rocs has several highly-rated options in the group including their Grand Cru that I wrote about here last March. If you're lucky enough to still have a bottle of that one, consider this a great opportunity for a head-to-head comparison.
The aroma of apples, brown sugar, dark fruits and candied orange peel is quite subtle. While you hunt for it, there is plenty to appreciate in the hazy, amber-orange appearance, which comes topped with one finger's worth of dense and fine foam. Malty sweetness, raisin and banana lead the list of flavours that open for a brown sugar middle and slightly bitter finish. Plenty of mousse-like carbonation keeps Montagnarde from leaning too far towards syrup.
The sweet, complex and slightly bitter flavours immediately bring one ingredient to my mind: caramelised onions. Like the nearly-burnt allium, this beer will do best when paired with rich, slow-cooked beef dishes—everything from humble pot roast to a sophisticated beef cheek daube.
If you can’t stand brews with a dollop of sweetness, this one is probably not for you. But those with a bit of a beer sweet-tooth should pick this one up as a last reminder of dark, cool-weather drinking.
Brasserie de l'Abbaye des Rocs Montagnarde, $3.05 for a 330 ml bottle, LCBO #356212
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
