The idea of drinking green beer appeals to me only slightly more than the prospect of eating yellow snow. For about a century, bars (almost exclusively in North America) have celebrated St. Patrick's Day by selling their customers pale, fizzy lagers befouled with dye. It's not delicious, aesthetically attractive, or even Irish.
Better to toast the patron saint of the Emerald Isle with an actual Irish stout, or a bottle of the 2014 version of Innis & Gunn's Irish Whiskey Finish stout. As I explained the last time I wrote about one of this Scottish brewery's beers in 2012, "whiskey finish" means that Irish-whiskey-soaked chunks of American oak are added to the maturing tanks of beer. This is easier and cheaper than aging the beer in used Irish whiskey barrels.
Poured into a dimpled mug, the stout is a very dark, walnut brown. Three fingers of light brown head slowly falls back to a ring of foam. The restrained aroma of sweet malt and a touch of oaky vanilla only hits me as I dip into the glass for a first sip. That introductory taste brings flavours that run the course from sweet, dried fruits, through vanilla and whiskey from the oak, and then finish with those hallmarks of deeply-roasted malts: dark chocolate and coffee beans.
Fair warning to those who think that beers should be touched with no more than a subtle hint of wood and whiskey flavour: This one may not be for you. Personally, I like that the brashness is balanced by the base characteristics of the beer. The two sets of dessert flavours — vanilla and dark chocolate — work well together.
Be quick about picking up a couple bottles. The brewery's unfortunate use of clear glass means that the longer these linger in stores, the more likely they are to be light-struck and develop skunky flavours.
If the lack of food coloring wasn't enough, maybe the Irish Whiskey Finish's balance and full flavour will convince you to make this your drink for the sort of weekend revelry that is contemplative and jovial, rather than debauched and green.
Innis & Gunn's Irish Whiskey Finish (called Irish Whiskey Cask at the LCBO), $3.25 for a 330 ml bottle, LCBO #279349
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
