Today is the first day of my campaign to bring the term "session beer" out of the dark corners of British beer jargon and into general use. It defines a brew that one could comfortably enjoy three or four pints of during an evening (the session) at a pub. They are usually low in alcohol, and tend to include a set of restrained flavours that leave the drinker free for conviviality rather than demanding careful attention.
Muskoka Brewery, from Bracebridge, Ontario, has added Detour, a session IPA to complement their well-known Mad Tom and Twice as Mad Tom IPAs.
In a nonic pint glass, Detour is copper-gold with a touch of haze and establishes two fingers of rocky, off-white foam. As the head slowly recedes, it leaves behind a moderate amount of lacing.
Aromas of pine resin and grapefruit pith escape from around the foamy cap, while the flavour adds a bready sweetness to challenge those hop characteristics. Detour has a light and refreshing texture and a crisp, moderately bitter finish that prepares the palate for the next sip.
This beer is an ideal partner for a meal of diverse elements: a beach-side clam bake or a mixed grill of sausages and chops (unified by a vibrant and garlic-laden Chimichurri) spring to mind. In both cases, the crisp beer would help define the separate and similar elements of the communal menu.
You could make a solid argument for putting Detour into one of the other styles in the pale ale family. But "session IPA" has more cachet right now than "ordinary bitter," and I'm happy to have the support for my word usage campaign. I just hope they add a tall can version–more suited to summer session drinking–by the time July rolls around.
Muskoka Brewery's Detour, $13.65 for 6 x 355 ml bottles, LCBO #375345
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
