Whisky and beer have more in common than you might think. They both start as malted grain (usually barley) soaked in hot water. It’s not until after fermentation, when the whisky is distilled, that their courses start to diverge. Because of this common source, it makes sense when breweries choose to finish beer in barrels, as Cameron’s has with their Bourbon barrel-aged Deviator Doppelbock.
The basic Deviator has a fistful of beer medals (Ontario, Canadian, and international) so it is an ideal base to start with for a special release. Generally, doppelbocks are some of the richest, most powerful members of the lager family and are perfect for both early winter enjoyment and the concentration that comes with barrel-aging.
Poured into a deep snifter, the almost black walnut colour is obvious. A thin head, itself the colour of coffee ice cream, quickly dissipates.
The barrel aroma of woodsy oak and vanilla starts to make itself known as soon as the cap comes off the bottle. The Deviator gets its biscuit and banana aromas from the base beer. The flavour leans more specifically towards bourbon and the dark fruit flavours (like booze-soaked plums) that feel appropriate at this time of year.
Maybe because of the style’s monastic history or the obvious whisky-like flavours, this feels like a beer that's made for sharing. Pour it into beer snifters (half-full so there’s space for the aroma to linger) and toast each other’s good health.
The Deviator goes best with dishes at either end of a meal. It will help lift and highlight the flavours of hearty soups like French Onion and will be an ideal partner for the greatest of all dessert substitutes: a generous chunk of aged, salty blue cheese.
Cameron's Deviator Doppelbock Bourbon Barrel, $10.95 for a 650 ml bottle, LCBO #363887
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is also the author of the upcoming Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
