"Single malt" and "single estate" are terms that separate exclusive whiskies and wines from the mainstream. The idea is that connoisseurs will appreciate the distinctive character (some would say rough edges) that blending would hide.
The equivalent idea for craft beer, I suppose, is to make a brew with a single variety of hops. Some object that, by the nature of their breeding, hops are meant to be blended. Speaking generally, that argument runs that some add bitterness and others aroma, but none are good for everything. On the other hand, single hop beers tend to let the hop character shine clearly and provide an interesting point for comparison.
For over three years Oakham, a small brewery in Peterborough, England has produced their take on an American pale ale with Citra. Like its "C" cousins Challenger and Cascade, Citra depends on zesty citrus and tropical fruit flavours for its character.
Oakham's Citra pours a clear, light gold with a bit of off-white head. The aroma is unmistakably tropical with plenty of lemon peel, grapefruit, and lychee. I also get a hint of sweet floral honey lingering in the background. After a first sip, I added orange (peel and pith), pine, and biscuit to my tasting notes. Everything ties together nicely in a crisp, slightly bitter, dry finish.
A repeated complaint about imported, hop-forward pale ales is that they can lose some (or all) of their distinctive character in transit. I haven't had the opportunity to try the Oakham Citra fresh from the brewery, so it's tough to say for sure, but the sample at the LCBO's media tasting seemed fresh. All the same, it's probably best to snap this one up before it spends too long on shelves.
Whether whiskey, wine, or beer, I think a light touch is the key to making an enjoyable single-something product. Helped also by an ABV below 5%, the hops in the Oakham Citra are subtle enough that I could drink a few of these in a session.
Oakham Ales' Citra, $4.95 for a 500 ml bottle, LCBO #360321
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
