Pretty much all of the widely available, special-release Ontario beers that I would consider collecting and comparing from year to year come out sometime between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Muskoka's Legendary Oddity, now on shelves, is a stand-out exception to this rule.

Since it was first released for spring 2012 this beer has undergone recipe changes, a $3 price bump, and last year's name change from "Legendary Spring Oddity" to "Legendary Oddity." I'm particularly pleased to see that this time Muskoka did some of the heavy lifting for us and aged the beer for a year before releasing it.

This spiced Belgian ale pours a light orange-gold with a cap of white foam that sticks around. The Belgian yeast character is most obvious on a nose full of spice (cloves mainly), citrus, and ripe stone fruit. The delicious flavour matches sweet toffee against bitter citrus peel and plenty of tropical fruit notes.

Part of the backstory for Oddity is that its spring release celebrates another year's thaw and awakening for Ontario's forests. The recipe features a list of uncommon ingredients to underline this connection, including juniper berries and heather tips.

Probably because Oddity is such a complicated blend of flavours, my best results have come with simple, and slightly salty food pairings. Consider enjoying this complex brew alongside smoked salmon, fresh goat cheese, and spring greens combined in a variety of formats from salad to sandwich.

Muskoka Brewery claims that they'll carry the Oddity until end of June at their tasting bar in Bracebridge, but I suspect the "while supplies last" caveat will kick in before then. Even with the price increase, I think it's worth picking up a couple bottles of the vintage version of Legendary Oddity: one to drink now and another for future comparison.

Muskoka Brewery's Legendary Oddity, $12.95 for a 750 ml bottle, LCBO #290973

In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.