Unibroue might be the best Canadian example of a craft brewery that challenges the popular expectation of what will happen when they are taken over by an international mega-brewery. The brewery, which is based in Chambly, Quebec, was bought by Sleeman in 2004 (who in turn were purchased by Sapporo in 2006), but they continue to churn out excellent and really specialized offerings like the Grande Reserve 17.
The Unibroue 17, as it's more colloquially know, was first made in 2007 to celebrate the brewery's first 17 years of operation. Bottles from that batch picked up a trophy case of international medals, including a three-year streak of Platinums at the World Beer Championship and The Best Dark Ale at the World Beer Awards in 2010. That sort of success apparently convinced Unibroue that they should stop fiddling with the recipe for their annual special release and just keep making new batches of the 17.
A beer tulip or chalice is the best choice of glass for showcasing the complex aroma and achieving the optimal serving temperature of 12C. Poured into one of these, Unibroue 17 is a hazy, dark auburn. The moderate, off-white foam falls back to a finger's-worth of resilient cap.
Its aroma twists together notes of vanilla, malt, and dark-fruit sweetness. These are backed up by spices that are reminiscent of an exotic-leaning banana bread recipe. Flavours of candied plum and figs with a bit of chocolate and more of the vanilla continue to help this beer sing from the baked goods song sheet. There is also plenty of carbonation and a slight tinny edge (that will hopefully drop away with age.)
Other than patience, I find that quantity is the important thing when starting a beer cellar. You don't need hundreds of bottles, but having more than a handful helps. The idea is that beers like this one will improve with lots of age—Unibroue says five to eight years. The only way that you'll be able to hold off that long is if your collection includes other options (like saisons and sours) that will get to where you want them to be much faster.
Pick up a couple bottles of the Unibroue 17, share one now with friends, and save the other for the home stretches of this decade.
Unibroue's Grande Reserve 17, $9.95 for a 750 ml bottle, LCBO #256297
