Nothing announces that a beer takes itself seriously quite like a bottle wrapped in branded tissue paper. Some sources claim that Liefmans started this marketing trick for their Goudenband.

This beer falls into the Flemish style known as Oud Bruin, which, as you may have guessed, is Dutch for old or aged brown. Members of the group tend to be brown and slightly tart, but not as sour as their countrymen: lambics or Flanders Reds.

Goudenband's deep walnut colour reminds us where the Oud Bruin style gets the second half of its name. Its thin creamy brown head quickly recedes.

It sends out aromas of malt, sour cherries, apple cider vinegar, and a hint of leather. The slightly acidic flavour is well-integrated with a lingering biscuit sweetness and almost no bitterness. The 8% alcohol is carefully disguised, and the finish lasts for ages.

Oud bruin is the textbook beer for a traditional Carbonade Flamande, both because they originate in the same part of Belgium, but also because the beer's well-integrated tart notes balance, season, and amplify the sweet and roasted flavours of long-cooked beef and onions.

With very little hop character and that perfect-for-food acidity, this is a bottle well-suited to showing wine lovers that beer can be more than just fizzy lagers and hop bombs. Between the "oh, this one must be special" effect of the packaging and its limited release, I bet the Goudenband will sell quickly, so best to grab a couple bottles.

Liefmans' (Duvel Moortgart) Goudenband, $8.75 for a 750 ml bottle, LCBO #348656

In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of the Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.