Chiado isn't the first name that rolls off the tongue when out-of-towners pose the question: Where shall we eat? However, the west end Portuguese restaurant has been a quiet mainstay of the Toronto dining scene for an awe-inducing 23 years. Those weary of backless benches and slapdash service can languish here for the better part of an eve, picking mains from a tray filled with the fish of the day — whole fish for the dedicated, or filets for the impatient — while attentive servers position napkins on laps and refill wine glasses.  

A classic cocktail befits a classic restaurant. As the Portuguese aren't known for their cocktails (vino really takes pride of place in their drinking landscape), Chiado borrows the Negroni from the Italians for a pre-dinner tipple. As is dictated, the cocktail pairs gin with vermouth rosso and Campari in an old fashioned glass, finished with a slice of orange.

And for dessert, be sure to indulge in something slightly more Portuguese: the cloud-like Natas do Céu will more than do.  

Chiado, 864 College St., 416-538-1910