Of the five chapters to the Hogtown Momofuku novella, Nikai is the one devoted to beverage. The bar-slash-lounge is housed up on the second floor; there, Jonathan Gonsenhauser oversees the cocktail menu, turning out both classics and riffs on them. The Mexican Zig-Zag — a nod to classic tipple the Last Word — is one of the bar's top picks.

Originally named the Ba'ktun, the mysterious moniker perplexed drinkers who tended to steer clear of the cocktail. "It just would not sell!" laughs Gonsenhauser. Its new nombre references Mexico (a nod to the tequila) and Zig Zag (the bar where the Last Word was invented), and has been far more successful.

Juarez Silver Tequila is paired with maraschino liqueur and yellow chartreuse, which is slightly sweeter than its better-known green cousin. "The tequila plays in nicely," Gonsenhauser notes, "and there's a pop with the sparkling wine." Up front, you get fruity sweetness with the tequila coming in at the end.

Here's to second chances.

Momofuku Nikai, 190 University Ave., 647-253-8000