The Emerson, part of the Blansdowne restaurant renaissance, just turned one. A narrow storefront belies its cavernous interior, which boasts all the hipster-approved fixings: fussball up front, bearded staff rocking whimsical bowties, and comforting eats that are nostalgic with a twist. 

Each night is devoted to a special. Some eves vaunt the savory pie, while on Sundays, patrons head over for the weekly roast, such as pork loin with a smattering of roasted veggies. Nights like these demand a swishy cocktail like the Ortolan ($9). Basically a jacked-up champagne, the beverage sees Contarini Valsecco prosecco and Armagnac brandy poured over a brown sugar cube. Finish the meal off with a seasonal classic: ice box cake topped with sprinkles. 

'Tis the season, after all.

The Emerson, 1279 Bloor St. W., 416-532-1717