As Toronto’s love affair with smoked meat deepens, local restaurateurs are increasingly becoming drawn to Texas-style barbecue. The latest to tread this path is J&J Bar-B-Que, an upcoming restaurant is set to open in Kensington Market this spring.

Co-owners Jonathon Lucas and Jay Moore — who have partnered up with the owners of the nearby Cold Tea to finance their operation — appreciate central Texas barbecue for its simplicity. The style is characterized by light rubs (usually just salt and pepper), minimal use of sauce and lots of wood smoke — in this case, white oak. It’s a purist’s style in which the meat’s natural flavour holds high priority.  

“We we’ve been drawn to the central Texas style because it’s more in line with how we like to cook,” Lucas says.

The two chefs have a wide range of kitchen experience: they were part of the opening team at Queen West’s now-closed Ursa, and Moore was formerly the sous chef at Momofuku Ko in New York. Moore also made sushi at at the lauded Sushi Kaji in Etobicoke.

Like many pitmasters, Lucas and Moore are self-taught in the art of barbecue, taking inspiration from research trips to Texas.

“We’ve always had an interest in barbecue,” Lucas says. “We have the basics from years of cooking. It just takes a lot of time, and it’s meticulous.”

Their new restaurant will take over the space formerly occupied by Thomas Lavers Cannery & Delicatessen at 193 Baldwin Avenue. Barbecued meats will be slow-cooked on two custom-built offset smokers fueled by wood only (no gas, no electricity). Brisket, ribs, sausage and other meat-friendly fare will be cooked overnight and served from 11 a.m. until it sells out.

As Texas tradition dictates, this barbecue joint will be casual: no table service. And keep an eye out for Big Red, a quintessential southern soda pop. 

Lucas and Moore hope to have their new spot up and running by the beginning of June.