Remember a couple years ago when bacon-flavoured everything was hilarious and novel? When bacon jam actually sounded appetizing, and when bacon lube was as plausible as bacon vodka? Man, the bacon trend was fun times. But while things have calmed down a bit in the bacon department, it’s already time to start thinking about it again because it’s Toronto’s 180th anniversary, and Toronto’s quintessential food happens to be a variant of bacon.
Peameal bacon is one of Toronto’s lasting contributions to humanity. It was invented here the 1800s by Toronto entrepreneur William Davies. He brined pork loin in a sweet pickling solution, then rolled it in crushed yellow peas — the namesake peameal — to help with preservation. The result is sweeter and juicier than other forms of bacon, which are typically smoked (true peameal bacon never is).
We also have Davies to thank for Toronto’s nickname, Hogtown, because his business was, at one point, the biggest processor of pork in the entire British Empire. Really, the man should have monuments dedicated to him all over town.
These days, the name “peameal bacon” is mostly just a heinous lie. It doesn’t even involve peameal any more because the coating has been replaced with the more practical cornmeal. And this kind of bacon is probably closer to ham, because it’s way leaner than the traditional North American stuff (it comes from the back of the pig, rather than the fat-streaked belly).
Still, despite the deception, people eat peameal bacon all the time. Probably because it tastes good. And St. Lawrence Market, where the legendary Davies got his start over 100 years ago, is the place to go for a great peameal bacon sandwich.
There, two purveyors — Carousel Bakery and Paddington’s Pump — are contenders for providing the best one in the city. Both sandwiches are good, and they’re both nothing more than layers of peameal bacon on buns. Extra toppings are available, of course, and Paddington’s recommends a bit of honey mustard, but I say that you shouldn’t mess with the simplicity too much.
It’s a tough call to pick a favourite. Carousel uses a smaller white bun (as opposed to Paddington’s kaiser), so the bun-to-bacon ratio is better, but the sandwich comes prewrapped and premade, so it loses a couple of points there. And while I am a purist most of the time, Paddington’s adds a slight kick by cooking the bacon with a bit of paprika, garlic and other spices, and this is actually a good addition. So I’m going to roll with Paddington’s by a hair.
Peameal bacon sandwiches get harder to find as you migrate outside of the Market. For a not-at-all simple, totally overindulgent take, Queen West’s Lisa Marie does one wherein the bacon is braised in butter, orange juice and terikayi sauce, then topped with fried green tomatoes, chimichurri, caramelized onions, American cheese and a fried egg. On Queen East, Rashers — which bills itself as North America’s first bacon sandwich shop — does one with a fried egg and aged cheddar in addition to a classic one.
Further north, as Jewish delis become more commonplace (hint: don’t go to a Jewish deli if you want one of these sandwiches), a greasy spoon known as Fat Phill’s does the trick. And sure, the sandwiches are delicious. Just know that they’re a little gauche these days. Word on the street is that the hot new trend in Toronto’s restaurants is — gasp — vegetables.
This nouveau take marries the peameal with fried green tomatoes, a fried egg and chimichurri.
A fried egg and gooey cheddar cheese meet the bacon in this take on the ’wich.
A stack of peameal is topped with tomato and lettuce.
