I admit: until recently, I had never properly taken the time to appreciate what each season brings with it. In the middle of winter, I’d get distracted by avocados from Mexico and beefsteak tomatoes from Florida, instead of experimenting with squash (after Thanksgiving) or parsnips. But holy mother of pearl, I’ve been missing out. 

Now, In Season is about what Ontario currently has to offer, where to eat it in Toronto, or how to prepare it at home. If you too are late to the in-season produce party, join me. If you’re way ahead, welcome us latecomers with tips and recipes. There’s a comment section below, or find me on Twitter @saisumar. 

First up is carrot’s cream-colored cousin: parsnip. 

While the nutty, bulbous root dates back to Ancient Rome, they were particularly appreciated for their sugar content during medieval times before cane sugar was widespread in Europe. Before the introduction of potatoes, parsnips continued to rein in the European diet as a main source of starch. With parsnip season coming to an end, now is the time to savor the overshadowed root while we wait patiently for spring’s arrival.

In Ontario, parsnip season begins as summer turns to fall, and its flavours evolve as the temperature continues to drop. While Canadian winters aren’t known to welcome most crops (and snow fall in April turns many of us bitter), parsnips actually sweeten when the soil gets colder. As the frost coats the ground, the low temperatures transform its starch to sugars. These sweet winter roots are also a good source of potassium, vitamin C, folate, and dietary fiber. 

Parsnips recipes are plenty: soups and stews, roasted Parmesan fries, a spiced relish or a sweet maple cake. 

If you're not up for the peeling and chopping routine, you could also enjoy them at Chabrol, Chef Doug Penfold’s French bistro tucked away in Yorkville, where red and golden beet nuggets peek through Puy lentils set atop an ivory pillow of smoked parsnip puree. Chef Penfold finishes the dish with Grenache vinaigrette.