Walk of shame: The Shameful Tiki Room
After much anticipation, this Van City transplant has finally flung open its Parkdale doors and has been bursting at the seams every since. Aiming to mimic a midcentury Tiki establishment, the Shameful Tiki Room is a pulsating step into the past, complete with boozy tipples that stick to classic recipes and a staff outfitted in festive Hawaiian garb. Sip on the blue Hawaii, which sticks to the 1957 recipe and sees rum and vodka paired with pineapple and fresh lemon juice, coconut milk and curaçao — for that violent blue shade. Bites include the addictive teriyaki fried broccoli, which is coated with a coconut milk and rice flour blend. Poke, which means “to slice” in Hawaiian, is a classic raw fish app in the island state, reminiscent of ceviche. Here, ahi tuna comes with honeydew melon and macademia nuts and is dressed in sesame oil and hibiscus juice. 1378 Queen St. W.
Polynesian perspective: Miss Thing’s
“I wondered why the only thing you hear about Tiki culture is this caricature of it,” says Miss Thing’s Nav Sangha. Acting as the counterpoint to Shameful Tiki, the space has been bathed in rich greens with hand-painted hibiscus flowers dancing across the walls, sidestepping any potential cheese factor. Sangha describes the food as “tropical pan-Asian,” with items ranging from Spam pintxo to the striking pineapple fried rice. The former is a take on Spam musubi, a Hawaii mainstay: it pairs homemade Spam (cooked sous vide, to keep the pinkness) with a seared scallop and a fruity salsa. The latter sees a half pineapple filled with brown rice, red pepper, cashews and, yes, the spiky fruit. Hunks of slow roasted pork belly or deep-fried jackfruit finish the dish. As for whether or not there is a real ‘Miss Thing,’ there is: Sangha’s young daughter. 1279 Queen St. W., 416-516-8677
Lush sips: Sidecar
When Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt returned to his homeland of America in 1933, following an island-hopping stint, there were only two things to do. First, change his name to Donn Beach and second, open up Don the Beachcomber, the original Tiki haven. There, Mr. Beach invented his namesake spice syrup, Don’s Mix, an aromatic blend of cinnamon and grapefruit that goes hand in hand with Tiki tipples. At Sidecar, noted mixologist Oliver Stern recently won the local leg of a cocktail competition with his Catalan Cobbler. “It’s a riff on the sherry cobbler, inspired by the Catalan region, the birthplace of the Bacardi founder,” Stern notes. The tropical ’tail matches Bacardi Superior white rum with Don’s Mix and Brickworks cider. Garnished with a cinnamon stick and apple fan, the result is an elegant twist on Tiki flavours. 577 College St., 416-536-7000
Tiki trappings: Shore Leave
Putting forth the argument that one needn’t head west to get a taste of the tropics is Shore Leave. Newly brought to the Danforth by Zach Littlejohn and Julian Altrows, this bar arrives complete with hand-painted murals and actual Tikis. Carved by Altrows, the wooden Tikis do double duty as beer tap handles. Here, the focus is mostly on the drinks program. The Kon Tiki, served in a hollowed-out pineapple, is a heady blend of the house zombie rum mix, homemade orgeat, absinthe and fresh passion fruit–pineapple juice. Proceed with caution. Those looking to eat and sip had best visit during their monthly Global Street Food Hour. “We typically load up the smoker with island-inspired snacks, ribs and slaws,” says Littlejohn. If you’re lucky, the spread may include Hawaiian smoked ribs and scallop kokoda, their take on a Polynesian raw fish dish. 1775 Danforth Ave., 647-477-8833
