Call it gentrification, revolution or a slow progression, it’s clear a change is afoot in the budding ’hood of Bricktown. Unofficially known as Little India (and more officially known as the drab-sounding Greenwood-Coxwell), this east-end region surrounding Gerrard Street East and Greenwood Avenue has long been the place to find T.O.’s best Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi food, but the last year has brought a brilliant diversity of rule-bending restaurants to the area.
This fall, a totally revamped Maple Leaf Tavern will open a few blocks west of Greenwood. It has lofty ambitions to be a destination on par with New York’s Gramercy Tavern. However, it’s by no means the only entrant into the area that calls out for a dedicated walking tour. Herewith, our picks for neighbourhood’s best.
Maha’s Mind-blowing Chicken Sandwich (Image: David Ort)
Maha’s Fine Egyptian Cuisine
This relatively new spot on Greenwood has drawn accolades for its Middle Eastern brunch but also has a range that stretches well beyond just eggs.
It takes some big chickpeas to call one of your offerings a Mind Blowing Chicken Sandwich — especially if it isn’t fried chicken. This one wears the name well. Subtly spicy chicken, parsley, onion and tomatoes spill out of a toasted bun. The works are covered in garlicky tomeya sauce and tahini. This is a sandwich that needs a knife and fork and leaves the lingering impression of bright warm-weather flavours. 226 Greenwood Ave., 416-462-2703
The hearty and satisfying mushroom sandwich from Eulalie’s Corner Store. (IMAGE; CJ BAEK)
Eulalie’s Corner Store
It’s not exactly on a corner, it isn’t a store and there is certainly no Eulalie — but everything else about this joint is spot-on. Nicole Cheung has created the neighbourhood bar that every part of the city needs. And she has not forgotten about food.
The mushroom sandwich is very satisfying, served with ’shroom jus for dipping. Boneless fried chicken and potato waffles make for a popular pick — pair with some refreshing watermelon salad. Tuck into on their pleasant, shady patio and pair with a brew from their solid list of mostly local craft beer. 1438 Gerrard St. E., 647-350-6263
The vada pav by Bombay Chowpatty are a shareable,. vegetarian snack. (IMAGE: CJ BAEK)
Bombay Chowpatty
The name and menu’s theme are a nod to eclectic food stalls on Mumbai’s Chowpatty beach. Perhaps thinking that veg street food snacks might not be enough, the space also moonlights as a video store full of Bollywood favourites.
The vada pav is a pair of buns with chickpea patties, but don’t think of them as a veggie burger. Unlike the frozen-food pretenders, this one manages to be light and fresh, and delivers a well-tuned spiciness.
Masala fries are an indulgent snack that give the visual impression of a child gone wild with the ketchup bottle. Green chutney, chopped onions and yogurt all keep the tamarind chutney from overpowering. 1386 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8080
Lahore Tikka House
No establishment better represents the connection between the ’hood’s Little India past and blossoming present than LTH. The construction fences and rickshaws are gone, and based on appearances, you could be in any of T.O.’s inner suburbs. There are plenty of old favourites on the menu that continue to make this a diner magnet. The beef karahi, lamb kebabs and aloo gobi are all must-haves. 1365 Gerrard St. E., 416-406-1668
A glass of Left Field’s Eephus Oatmeal Brown Ale is a fine cap on a day of eating. (IMAGE: CJ BAEK)
Left Field Brewery
After all that eating, a short walk and a beer are in order. Happily, Left Field has built a serene tap room in their brew space. The Maris* pale ale and Sunlight Park saison are well-made options that cover lots of beer ground. And what better way to celebrate the resurgent Jays than with a visit to our very own baseball-themed brewery? 36 Wagstaff Dr., 647-346-5001
