Craft beer in Ontario is changing—improving, for the most part—at such a quick pace that it sometimes takes an outside perspective to judge our progress. Conversations with beer enthusiasts from other provinces (especially those with a well-developed craft beer scene like they have in B.C. and Quebec) often focus on Amsterdam’s Tempest Imperial Stout as an example of an Ontario beer that they wish could get more of.
The “imperial” part of the name refers to the style’s history as a popular export from England to the Russian Imperial court of Catherine the Great. These beers tend to be sweeter, stronger in alcohol, and hoppier than the stouts that a certain Irish brewing company has made ubiquitous.
In a pint glass, Tempest pours a very dark, nearly opaque black, with a tan head that quickly drops and leaves plenty of lacing behind.
The aroma is a concentrated version of the usual stout suspects: dark chocolate, coffee, and roasted barley. Tempest’s distinctive bitter hop notes come out on the palate, joined by more of those brooding chocolate and coffee flavours. A pleasant, creamy texture helps support the strong flavours.
Last Saturday, Amsterdam released a double version of Tempest. Twice the malt and hops bring the double version's alcohol to 15% and IBUs to 115. The Double Tempest was aged in Four Roses bourbon barrels for nine months, which gives it subtle, well-integrated notes of oak, vanilla, and bourbon.
Saturday’s event also included a vertical tasting of the 2011, 2012, and 2013 versions of Tempest. The difference between 2011 and 2013 was fairly obvious—less carbonation and better integrated flavours in the former—but I was surprised at how similar the 2011 and 2012 were. Because it ages so gracefully and will almost definitely be available in future years, a few bottles of Tempest would make an ideal base for a burgeoning beer cellar.
Amsterdam Brewery’s Tempest Imperial Stout, $6.25 for a 500 ml bottle, LCBO #317032
In addition to covering beer, new restaurants and food trucks for Post City, David Ort writes about food and drink for several Toronto publications including his own site, Food With Legs. He is the author of the Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook; now in stores and available for ordering online. For more of his thoughts on food, beer and life in general, follow him on Twitter or get in touch at info@foodwithlegs.com.
