Eureka! I may have found a neighbourhood eatery, in my own neighbourhood, that is worth the walk. Opened only three months ago, by Ned Spahic, after eight successful years as executive chef at Sette Mezzo a few blocks away, Balsamico is the latest addition to the Yonge stroll north of Davisville.
There is nothing revolutionary about this dining room, but, in a way, that is its appeal. A gathering of simple, familiar ingredients are processed in the kitchen’s crucible to produce dishes of uncommon appeal.
The clean, spare lines of the room are saved by a warm glow from some intelligent lighting. Service borders on cloying but manages to stay just this side of jovial. Bruschetta pomodoro is $9.95 for two. We receive a pizza-esque thin crust lavishly topped with tomatoes, fresh basil, excellent olive oil and shaved parmigiano. Fine if it stands in for the appetizer course, but given that we are anticipating a side dish, this is over the top. Zuppa del giorno is a fabulous minestrone.
Traditionally concocted of any vegetable within arm’s length, this soup tastes of the Tuscan hills. No additional thickening is needed, and the broth is, mercifully, not oversalted. In the frosty months ahead, I can picture wishing for regular injections ($5.95). The gamberi al gusto appetizer brings four black tiger shrimps with cherry tomatoes and bountiful garlic in a white wine lemon sauce. Grilled crostini is a welcome tool for sopping up the savoury dressing, but for $10.95 another shrimp or two might be in order. The list of pastas touches all the bases and evokes the best of Italy with more than a dozen offerings gently priced between $12.95 and $16.95. Linguine con aglio e olio provides a nice balance. The pasta is graced with the same olive oil we have been enjoying all evening, garlic, spicy sausage, baby arugula and cherry tomatoes.
This is an earthy and intriguing juxtaposition of textures and tastes: al dente linguine, crunchy arugula and traditional sausage. I wish for more kick in the sausage and feel the kitchen underestimates the Toronto palate, but the dish works and is served in a portion that does not overwhelm us ($13.95). Petto di pollo agli asparagi is a creative offering that is delicately handled. The chicken breast is sautéd to impressive moistness, but white meat is only as interesting as what is done to it. Chef Spahic has designed a rendition where it is bathed in a light white wine and cream sauce and garnished with emerald asparagus that has retained its crunch and flavour ($18.95). Given that we are only two for dinner this evening, we do not have the opportunity to sample the pizzas priced from $10.95 for the basic margherita to $15.95 for the gamberi (shrimp). Next time.
A quick reading of the brief wine list reveals a consistency of philosophy at Balsamico. The most expensive red wine is $8.95 per glass for a generous pour of Chianti — the perfect foil for this meal. Bravo. Only four desserts are offered, and the waiter strongly recommends the tiramisù. Now, this is a sweet that I have enjoyed over the years but have been confronted by so much sludge that I have started to avoid it. I take one more shot at it and am rewarded with an exemplary rendition. To resolve the question raised at the start of this piece: yes, I have found a place in my neighbourhood to which I would return on a moment’s notice.
Balsamico 2029 Yonge St. 647-348-0337
Dinner for two excluding tax, tip and alcohol: $60
